Roberts wins in Wujiang

Heading out in front of a capacity crowd at the Fenhu Cultural and Sports Center, three GB Climbing athletes took to the wall for the first IFSC World Cup Lead finals of the season in Wujiang, China.

Erin McNeice had secured her place in the finals after finishing the semi-finals in seventh whilst in the men’s Toby Roberts had advanced through in first and Max Milne in fourth.

The women’s competition was up first and saw McNeice make her second appearance in an IFSC World Cup final after coming 5th in the Boulder competition in Keqiao a few days earlier. She matched this result in the Lead event after reaching hold 39, coming in just behind Japan’s Tanii Natsuki who made 40.

In the men’s competition, nine climbers made it through from the semi-finals due to Zento Murashita and Shion Omata of Japan finishing in joint 8th on hold 31.

Toby Roberts took home his second Lead World Cup gold medal of his career after securing hold 36+. Whilst Japan’s Taisei Homma matched this, Toby's better position from the semi-finals (also a win) edged him ahead leaving Homma to settle for silver. Finishing in third was Homma's compatriot Sorato Anraku. 

Roberts becomes only the second British male to hold two gold World Cup medals in Lead after Simon Nadin in 1989-90.

Speaking to the IFSC about his preparations for the Paris 2024, Roberts said: “[it’s] going well and I’m using this competition to see how I am doing after a hard winter’s training and I just enjoying competing on the comp circuit. So things are going well.”

For fellow teammate, Max Milne, it was another personal best, where today saw his first appearance in a Lead final. Milne took 8th place in the competition after hitting hold 23+. Milne took 8th place in the competition after hitting hold 23+. Japan’s Shuta Tanaka also reached the same height but took 7th place above Milne on countback.

For full results click here