Meet GB Climbing’s rising star Rhys Conlon

Team GB’s Rhys Conlon, 17, from Woking, Surrey won his first international medal, a bronze in the European Youth Cup in St. Pierre, France, last summer. This year he’s aiming for the Youth Worlds in China this August before moving up into the Under 20’s category in the senior competitions. We had a chat with Rhys to find out more about his climbing journey and long-term hopes for the future. 

Follow Rhys on Instagram @rhysconlon

When did you start climbing?

When I was 7 years old I started climbing. My family and I went on holiday and I decided to try and climb a small seaside cliff. I got stuck a few metres up. Dad had to come rescue me in his flip flops, decidedly unamused. My parents thought they would take me climbing so at least I could get myself down next time - it all kicked off from there really!

What do you love most about climbing?

What I love most about climbing is its uniqueness. No route or boulder is the same, climbing can never get boring when each problem is different from the rest! Climbs are like people; they each have their own unique intricacies. 

What steps led you to the GB Climbing team?

I think I landed running really, I joined a team with some super strong climbers already going down that path and found out that I also really enjoyed competing. I was lucky that I also had parents and coaches who’ve been psyched to help me achieve the best I can.

How did SportAid help you out?

SportsAid are pretty vital in assisting my competition journey (along with other sponsors). They’ve provided a small amount of funding that goes a very long way in helping me attend the international competitions, some of which I would struggle to go to otherwise. Also they provide some great insight on how elite sportspeople manage their lives and competitions through workshops and talks. I’m also sponsored by La Sportiva UK, Rock On Climbing, and Kletterkalk; all providing their own unique assistance.

What was your last competition?

My last international competition was the European Youth Lead Championships back in September where I reached the final in second, then slipped in finals and ended up in 8th. In terms of open competitions I attended Plywood Masters last weekend (2-3 March) where I finished 6th behind some strong boys.

Your climbing career highlights?

This is a tricky one, but I think the one that tops them all must be the European Youth Cup in St Pierre back in June 2023 where I won my first international medal (3rd place). My dad came to watch and my family were watching by back at home. This is closely followed in second place with when I reached the final at the Youth World Championships in Voronezh when I was 14, which was my first ever international competition in 2021.

What were your stats for 2023?                                             

I got three bronze medals at the European Youth lead competitions (two individual and one overall). Semifinals (finished 15th) at Youth World Championships in some difficult conditions in August in Seoul, Korea. Semifinals in my first ever senior European cup lead in Zilina, Slovakia in July. Finals (top 10) in every single European Youth Cup (lead or boulder) that I attended all year (I attended 5), including 8th place at the European Youth Lead Championships. 

Any low points to learn from?

I had a couple of slips in semifinals/finals in some comps this year, notably my first senior comp (Zilina, Slovakia) which put me a few places further down in the semis than I would’ve liked. I also struggled to cope with the extreme heat and humidity in Korea for the Youth Worlds that was held outdoors. But I will bounce back from these mistakes always better than before, for how can you truly improve without them?!

Competitions and goals this year?

I’ve got a full junior season this year along with some senior European competitions to look forward to, and as per usual I will target the Youth Worlds that are in China this year, along with other European championships along the way. As for goals, I’m moving up into the U20 category and some senior spots so I’m aiming to keep a high consistency, regular finals etc, all year. It’s much easier to get medals if you’re in every final!

Long term goals in climbing?

Long term goals have to be the Olympics. I’m currently targeting LA 2028 and Brisbane 2032, and as always I’m aiming high in those events themselves. In terms of some more medium-long term goals I’m aiming to secure my spot in senior team and start building up towards senior World Cup and World Championship medals over the next few years. I enter every competition with the aim of winning, regardless of the end result.

How do you juggle school work with the training?

To be honest it can be a struggle juggling school with training, and that’s something I know is not unique to me, plenty of athletes struggle with the same. Essentially the only way I successfully balance it is by being super disciplined, sometimes when you want to just relax you have to just sit down and crank out an hour of work or revision. I believe it is important to have good qualifications in life, but at the same time I do my absolute best to not have to compromise my climbing. I’ve been successful so far! 

What do you enjoy doing when you’re not climbing?

In the few moments that I’m not climbing or doing college work I tend to do something that I don’t need to think about, such as reading a book or just staring mindlessly at the telly. Although I do try and get out with some mates when I can, for some social life outside of climbing.

Most useful/best thing a climbing coach has ever told you?

Hmmm, tricky one, I’ve had quite a few great statements from a coach. Potentially the best one is, “Stop climbing like a donkey”, which I love. However another more serious one is that, “It’s a privilege to feel the nerves and the excitement of competition, very few people get to experience it”, who I heard from my current coach Eder, which helps a lot if I start to worry before a big comp.

Your top tip for a newcomer to climbing?

I think lots of people who start climbing and want to improve worry maybe a bit too much about the less important things at that stage, such as doing lots of finger boarding. Don’t get get me wrong, these things are very important, but generally the best way to improve is just climb lots and surround yourself with people better than you. Be like a sponge, soak up all the knowledge you can get from the more experienced guys.

Your top tip for a youngster? 

I think the number one thing is to make sure you never lose the love of your sport, because if you do it’s never worth forcing yourself to carry on. If it becomes too much or too stressful, take a step back, go out on the rock for a bit, clear your head and get back that basic love of climbing before coming back - and come back only when you’re psyched to do so!

Anything else you’d like to mention?

One last thing, for those who’ve already started down the competition road, and I’m including myself in this, I used to (and still do) put lots of pressure on myself in training. I try to force myself to be the best I could possibly be and feel like I do in the competitions every single session. I struggle to accept when I’m just tired or in a heavy training phase. This would just disappoint me and reduce the quality of those sessions. So I think it’s important to learn that there will also be times when you feel fairly average, but that’s ok because you’re training so that you feel great when it counts.